Chef Kylie Kwong Discovers A Feast For The Senses
Karen Pakula. Several generations of poultry have moved in, though they are the only signs of life. The building's mud-brick walls are black with mould and, in the kitchen, a primitive stove is covered in chalky dust. It's been this way for more than a century, since its owner packed up his medicinal brews and bought his passage to Australia in the gold rush. His name was Kwong Sue Duk. He arrived in Darwin in 1875 and created an instant dynasty of 24 children with four concurrent wives. Now there are 1200 Kwongs, including chef Kylie. By dint of her trade as a superstar chef, she is one of few famous Chinese Australians. She grew up in North Epping with her brothers Paul and Jamie, unaware of any cultural difference from her friends. Her father, Maurice, talked like Paul Hogan. The family was outwardly Australian but Chinese at home. Her mother, Pauline, is a superb Cantonese cook. Both parents had 10 siblings. Her two grandmothers lived with them at various times and tried to...